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“Andy Warhol, prince of pop art” – that’s still how we assort the man generally declared as the greatest of the west’s postwar artists, alike admitting pop alone active the aboriginal three years of his fine-art career. In the quarter-century that followed, Warhol produced a all-inclusive ambit of assignment that has gone on to amount at atomic as much, if not more, to our culture. For bigger or worse, we’d not be absolutely area we are afterwards his abolitionist films, his association portraits – cool-eyed or caustic, depending on who you ask – or Account magazine. The 1,000 pages of Warhol: A Activity As Art, my new biography, offers the aboriginal absolute annual of all that and more.

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In the two excerpts that follow, we bolt Warhol aloof as he has larboard pop art abaft and is fishing for new means to accomplish his mark.

One of Warhol’s greatest creations was assuredly the army of eccentrics he accumulated in his acclaimed Argent Factory – he knew he’d be remembered for them as abundant as for his Soup Cans and Marilyns. As 1965 dawned, the best notable of all Warhol’s followers accustomed to booty her abode by his side.

“At Tuesday night’s banquet and examination at the Metropolitan Architecture of Art,” wrote the New York Times, “Mrs Johnson appeared in a atramentous faille strapless dress with a analogous stole.” “Mrs Johnson” was Adult Bird, aboriginal adult of the United States [wife of Lyndon B Johnson], and the Times address on her Met appointment additionally recorded two absurd guests the architecture had arrive to accompany her: “Andy Warhol, the pop artisan [with] Edie Sedgwick, a eyes in a lavender jersey jump clothing and a bristling accept purse.” Not absolutely the area or aggregation you’d brainstorm for the aboriginal media actualization of Warhol and his best acclaimed sidekick.

Mrs Johnson and accompany were previewing a blockbuster alleged Three Centuries of American Painting, for which Warhol’s acquaintance Henry Geldzahler had organised the area on added contempo art, up to and including Jackson Pollock. At the April opening, Warhol was there apery the abutting generation. And Edie Sedgwick represented his abutting art supply.

Sedgwick was 21 activity on 22, the acutely afflicted begat of an old and “good” New England clan. Her ancestor concluded up owning a all-inclusive agronomical in California, area he ran roughshod over his eight children, assault them and accident their psyches. One brother was beatific to a able hospital in Connecticut to be “cured” of his homosexuality. He hanged himself there. Addition additionally died by his own hand, abolition a motorcycle at acceleration in New York. Sedgwick said she was the victim of incest: “I had lots of absorption from my ancestor physically. He was consistently aggravating to beddy-bye with me… from the age of about seven on.”

Social status, wealth, eccentricity, biologic abuse: It’s no account Warhol took Sedgwick on

During her acutely afflicted adolescence, Sedgwick was in and out of institutions, area she got advised for bulimia and all kinds of mad, bad behaviour. In her 20s, she got out and spent time in Boston, demography clandestine art classes with a accessory and axis out accomplished but outdated, and bluntly adolescent, renderings of horses and mice. (A agglomeration concluded up in Warhol’s collection, area they were aberrant bedfellows with his works by Jasper Johns and Marcel Duchamp.) Sedgwick became allotment of a fancy, able Harvard set who were additionally adamantine partiers. In the summer of 1964, afterwards advancing into an bequest that was declared to accept paid $10,000 a month, she confused to New York and began a accidental career as a model.

“She was charming. She appropriate springtime and freshness,” said Diana Vreeland, in allegation of Vogue at the time. “But if you’re an honest-to-God model, you go to the gym afore you appear to work; you accept one adherent who buys you dinner. You go to bed acceptable and early. No nonsense. You’d never see one in a nightclub. That wasn’t Edie.”

Warhol said he aboriginal met Sedgwick about midwinter, aback she and her Harvardians showed up at a affair in the midtown accommodation of blur ambassador Lester Persky. “It was at my house, at this marble table, that I brought the two – Andy and Edie – together,” said Persky. “Andy, as I recall, sucked in his animation and did the accepted pop-eye affair and said, ‘Oh, she’s bee-you-ti-ful’… He was actual impressed.’”

Warhol watched Sedgwick ball “a array of ballet like rock’n’roll” that she’d able for an underwater Bach-and-rock disco that was actuality planned by her Harvard friends. (“Manqué people,” Persky alleged them.) Because of that – or added likely, admitting it – Warhol arrive them all bottomward to the Factory the abutting day and she and Warhol went on to see anniversary added now and then; he visited her in the hospital afterwards one of her car crashes. “She was in a casting from her anxiety up to her neck; all of her ribs were broken,” said a babysitter acquaintance of Warhol’s. “The doctors told Edie that she’d never be able to airing again. Her face was covered with scars, which was why she developed that heavy, aberrant makeup: those abundant eyebrows, they were to awning up scars beyond her forehead.” Once Sedgwick could absolutely airing afresh – her accretion seemed abutting to miraculous; she was apparent dancing in a casting – Warhol couldn’t abide putting her in advanced of his camera, cutting a alternation of Awning Tests that abduction her astounding, aerial but additionally absolutely appropriate beauty: Her eyes were Prince Planet-big and aback she smiled a cavity in one audacity activated her absolute face. “You aloof fell in adulation with her. No amount what – if you were beeline or gay or what. No matter, you aloof fell in adulation with her,” said one Factory regular. Addition declared her as a “fabulous actuality who glowed from aural and broadcast light… one of those admirable and attenuate creatures.”

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She additionally had a abysmal airiness that couldn’t be hidden. In one of Warhol’s four-minute reels, her eyes able-bodied up, apparently from aggravating not to blink, but it’s absurd not to apprehend those tears as hard-earned and deep-seated. “She had a low, croaking articulation that consistently articulate like she’d been crying,” said one onlooker. Often, she had been. “She was so admirable and so abandoned and so affluent and so bananas,” recalled her acquaintance Danny Fields. Sedgwick accumulated the quirky, aristocratic action of Katharine Hepburn in Bringing Up Baby with the wounded-bird address of the Laura appearance in The Glass Menagerie.

For a while, Sedgwick lived in her grandmother’s adorned accommodation on Park Avenue, active the agents mad with her agrarian hours and unannounced guests. Her spending was out of control. She ran up huge accounts with auto companies while giving their drivers all-inclusive tips in cash. She had caviar delivered aback she was at home and aback she was out she frequented the best and best fashionable restaurants, advantageous the way for accompany and associates of all kinds. “I aloof acquainted like we were redistributing the wealth,” said Fields.

Less than a year afterwards accepting her inheritance, it was already active out and her ancestor put her on a meagre (for her) allowance of $500 a month. “She complained about money, said she wasn’t active too well. Meanwhile, we were bubbler Château Margaux,” said a columnist in her crowd. She was additionally demography every affectionate of drug, from the barbiturates her doctors had started her on as a boyhood to the acerbic her Harvard accompany kept in the fridge; she additionally got approved shots of speed-laced “vitamins” from an accommodating Doctor Feelgood in New York.

Social status, wealth, eccentricity, biologic abuse: it’s no account Warhol took Sedgwick on as the latest accountable for his art – she was the absolute cantankerous amid girl-about-town Jane Holzer and the acceleration freaks of his Factory. Any blur he put her in basically wrote itself.

“Edie was absurd on camera – aloof the way she moved,” was the official Warholian booty on the Factory’s new star. “She was all activity – she didn’t apperceive what to do with it aback it came to active her life, but it was admirable to film. The abundant stars are the ones who are accomplishing commodity you can watch every second, alike if it’s aloof a movement central their eye.”

Sedgwick’s accession couldn’t accept appear at a bigger time, aback Warhol had aloof suffered a setback in his connected adventure for recognition. The ablaze columnist Richard Avedon, that old battling of Warhol’s, had guest-edited the absolute April affair of Harper’s Bazaar, whose capacity were “what’s happening” and “the camp ancillary of now”. That acutely appropriate connected nods to pop, but abreast from borrowing Warhol’s signature photobooth stylings for the contributors’ folio – afterwards giving acclaim for the “loan” – Avedon had larboard him out of the issue. There was full-page advantage of Rauschenberg, Johns, Lichtenstein and Oldenburg, additional Henry Geldzahler – but annihilation for Warhol.

Incredibly, Tom Wolfe’s annual of New York’s new “Pariah Chic” had managed to avoid Warhol and his Factory, abounding of the chicest pariahs in town, alike admitting it begin allowance for Baby Jane Holzer and added non-pariahs who owed their chichi to Warhol, as Wolfe himself had mentioned aloof a few months earlier. The annual bookended Wolfe’s Warhol-free allotment with shots of models in Factory-silver amplitude suits. As the final straw, Warhol’s absolute absence from the magazine’s altercation of underground blur could alone calculation as a advised diss, for all on the arena to see.

Twinning himself with Sedgwick was one way for Warhol to ensure that it wouldn’t be accessible to avoid him again. Journalists started to bill the two as inseparable, abiding partygoers. In a few weeks, the Sonnabend Arcade in Paris would be aperture a appearance of Warhol’s Flower paintings – meant to piggyback, Warhol said, on the French aftertaste for impressionism – and for the aboriginal time he absitively to accomplish the trip, but now with an entourage: his abettor and major-domo Gerard Malanga, of course, but additionally Sedgwick and her Harvard acquaintance Chuck Wein.

A few canicule afore they left, Lester Persky adopted the Factory to bandy a admirable goodbye for the Paris-bound quartet, abundantly calling it the “Fifty Best Admirable Bodies Party”. That advantageous name doesn’t assume to accept helped it amount any columnist advantage at all, alike admitting admirable bodies did appearance up: Tennessee Williams, the anew defected Rudolf Nureyev and, especially, the berserk bitchy Judy Garland. The affair gave the aboriginal sign, at atomic aback Warhol’s bootless appointment with Garbo in the 50s, of him gluttonous out the stars of Hollywood’s ancient aureate age, which became a signature move of his in the 1970s. But there was consistently at atomic as abundant campy, acrid ambit in his access to those awning idols as there was starstruck worship.

Persky and Warhol recalled Garland’s attendance at the affair in an account they gave a dozen years later:

Warhol: It was the better action in the world. Judy Garland and Lester Persky fighting! It was so unbelievable.

Persky: She kept saying: “Why don’t I anytime act in one of Tennessee’s plays?” And I said: “Well, the funny affair is, he doesn’t anticipate you can act.” I said it jokingly, and she never forgave me for that.

Warhol: But bethink she was agitated in by about bristles boys. And cipher paid any attention.

Persky: It’s adamantine to avoid Judy Garland, I can acquaint you.

Warhol: It was absolutely sad.

“Andy Warhol Causes Fuss in Paris.” That was the banderole that ran over a big commodity in the all-embracing archetype of the Herald Tribune in mid-May, a few canicule afterwards Warhol had appeared at the barrage of his appearance there – dozens and dozens of Flower paintings, in alike added sizes and colours than Leo Castelli had hung. The commodity was by Warhol’s acquaintance John Ashbery, who talked about the crowds of Parisians fatigued to the aperture and how Warhol and pop art were “causing the better across fuss aback Oscar Wilde brought ability to Buffalo in the 90s”. The account was mutual. On the accountable of Paris, Warhol became “momentarily animated”, according to Ashbery, and alone his breviloquent pose: “I travelled all about the world, alike to Kathmandu, but I never capital to see Paris. Now I abhorrence to leave. Everything is admirable and the aliment is aperitive and the French themselves are terrific. They don’t affliction about anything. They’re absolutely indifferent.”

Warhol’s aboriginal anytime architecture survey, apparent in October 1965, was at the Institute of Contemporary Art in Philadelphia. The ICA was a new, non-collecting academy on the campus of the University of Pennsylvania that had appear its Warhol appearance by commitment out 9,000 prints he’d fabricated of S&H Green Stamps, which were broadcast as allotment of a rewards programme by the archive banker Sperry & Hutchinson. (Warhol had been too active to aftermath them in time, however, so the architecture administrator had them fabricated and again himself active Warhol’s name to the ones awash as $10, “limited-edition” sheets.) Thanks to a flood of publicity, the Warhol survey’s accessible aperture – itself a new PR abstraction – became a madhouse. “I produced it as if it was appearance business. Because that’s what it was, what it was meant to be – a media event,” said the fiendishly well-connected new administrator of the ICA. “There were four TV account stations. Reporters from every magazine, anybody from New York, every celebrity I could get down… there was no catechism again but that Andy and his superstars were the event.”

Campus badge did army ascendancy as the artist’s admirers waited for the doors to accessible at the nightclub‑ish hour of 9pm. Added than 1,600 bodies caked in aural the aboriginal hour, afterwards which agents were too chock-full to accumulate track. The ICA had appear in beforehand that the aperture would “evoke Mr Warhol’s alive atmosphere – music, dancing, people, films and with journalistic and television coverage” and abiding enough, the ICA administrator Sam Green himself had corrective the floors argent and ordered two turntables set up to bang out the latest rock.

Other than such extras, however, visitors and TV crews begin a apartment of galleries whose walls were mostly abandoned except for a few nails. Some assignment had been damaged the night afore at a “private” appearance that had been mobbed, so the arcade absitively not to accident added abuse from yet-bigger apprentice crowds. One wag commented that he had never apparent a added admirable affectation of “black nails on white wall”, while addition aggregation complained that the crowds had acutely been “attracted added by the personalities than the art”. Precisely.

Four cops captivated the army at bay, handing up souvenirs to be autographed

“At 9:45, floodlights airtight on in the aback room. In swirled Andy Warhol and his entourage. He wore a atramentous T-shirt, atramentous wind-breaker, atramentous slacks and chicken wrap-around sunglasses. He was dressed for motorcycling,” apprehend a Philadelphia monthly’s post-mortem, acutely commissioned alike afore the appearance had launched. “Edie Sedgwick, his girlfriend, was at his side, a attenuate twentyish babe in a abominable pink, floor-length jersey tube.” Malanga was there, forth with the banker Ivan Karp and babysitter Henry Geldzahler; additionally present were the art analyzer David Bourdon, socialite Brigid Berlin and others from Warhol’s “band of pop-artistic merrymakers”, in the words of a bounded paper.

But that was not abreast abundant associates to accumulate Warhol safe from the hordes. Escorted by police, he and his followers eventually exhausted a retreat up a wrought-iron access that doglegged up from the attic afore hitting a asleep end at the ceiling. (The arcade was in a admirable Victorian accumulation originally congenital as the university library; the abortive access survived from those days.) Warhol and accompany approved apartment on the landing and, trapped there, looked bottomward on their admirers with a mix of account and fear: photos appearance a sea of faces gawking aback up at them. Four cops captivated the army at bay, handing up souvenirs to be autographed. Warhol – or added generally his acolytes – affably put “his” signature on driver abuse tickets, shirt cardboards, baby-food boxes and of beforehand Campbell’s soup cans that admirers had brought forth to be signed.

Sedgwick, who did abundant of Warhol’s signing that night, additionally teased the army with the absurdly over-length sleeves of her Rudi Gernreich dress, like a sailor jigging for cod off a boat. The drove of bodies pushed three admirers out of a window and into the hospital. Television footage showed the army accustomed on “like so abounding Beatlemaniacs”, according to one viewer, and that sounds right, and perceptive. “We appetite Andy!” shouted Warhol’s admirers and “Get his clothing!” At one point in the black the artisan surrendered his new, goggly sunglasses to an admirer, maybe the way a salamander abandons its appendage to a hawk. (Once things calmed down, he beatific Sedgwick to retrieve his eyewear.)

After actuality ashore in this limbo for abundant of the evening, Warhol and aggregation were adored by firefighters who baldheaded a trapdoor at the top of the stairs: “They came and they ripped it accessible with crowbars and they guided us through to addition attic and went through the library endless and through and bottomward the blaze escape, bottomward the ancillary of the architecture and into badge cars,” recalled Sam Green, the ICA administrator who had aggregate Warhol’s fate.

His abounding name was Samuel Adams Green and he was a 25-year-old art lover who had gotten the ICA’s top job the year before. That was as abundant because of his full-blooded Yankee name, and his access at the accomplished levels of Philadelphia society, as for the abysmal roots he had in cutting-edge art in New York. It was Green who had hosted the fur-strewn after-party for Warhol’s Flowers show. His brand “chin-strap” beard, sans moustache, can be spotted in any cardinal of photos that appearance Warhol out and about in the Manhattan art apple over the abutting several years.

The ICA had been founded alone in 1963, in approach to betrayal acceptance to the latest in beheld culture, but in actuality with a lath added acquisitive to put on surveys of Renoir and Gauguin. The Warhol appearance came about alone because there was no allotment for such big-name ventures and because of ablaze horse-trading and campaigning by Green. He abiding for the armchair of his lath – Mrs Horatio Gates Lloyd Jr, AKA “Lallie” – to be arrive to a adorned New York dinner, with Warhol built-in by her as entertainment. Green recalled actuality blessed to see that his artisan had afford his “monosyllabic, shy act” for the night and was accomplishing his best to agreeableness his neighbour.

Lallie Lloyd said: “Oh, Mr Warhol. I’m awfully admiring that you’re because our tiny little bush architecture in Philadelphia for a appearance of your work. Which I accept from Mr Green is awfully absorbing and I shall be attractive advanced to it.” So Andy said: “Ohh, Mrs Lloyd, I anticipate it’s so agitating that you’re absorbed in my assignment because I aloof anticipate Philadelphia is terrific. I anticipate you’re agitating too. I’m accomplishing movies now… I anticipate it would be so agitating if you’d be in one of our films.” “Why, Mr Warhol, nobody’s anytime asked me annihilation like that before. What would I accept to do?”

“Would you fuck with Sam?” She didn’t absence a beat. “Could I abrasion a blindfold?”

• This is an edited abstract from Warhol: A Activity As Art, appear by Allen Lane on 5 March (£35). To adjustment a archetype go to guardianbookshop.com. Free UK p&p over £15

• A attendant of Andy Warhol assignment will accessible at Tate Modern, London on 12 March

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